Travel - Argentina Style

When travelling in Argentina, there are a few things to remember that will make your travel a bit less stressful.

1. DEPARTURE TIMES ARE AN ESTIMATE
If a local flight has a departure time of 9 am, do not expect the plane to depart at 9 am.  Every flight we've taken on LAN or Aerolineas has left at least 20 minutes late, with 40 minutes being about the average.  When travelling by air, you have to assume that you need lots of time for connecting flights as your first flight will not arrive on time. 

2. CANCELLATIONS ARE COMMON
If they haven't sold enough tickets, it seems that they will cancel the flight altogether and you have to rebook on another flight.  Always check your flight status in advance! So far, we've only had that happen on one flight from Cordoba to BA.  When Shelbe and Madison were visiting, we had the same thing happen with our ferry ride back to Buenos Aires from Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.  We had first class tickets on the 5:30 pm high speed Buquebus ferry.  We arrived at the ferry dock with our souvenirs and some snacks that we had bought at the local kiosco as snacks on the ferry were expensive and lacking in variety.  When we arrived the ticket agent crossed out 17:30 on my ticket and wrote 21:00.  Why? I tried to ask.  "Cancelado."  I didn't bother asking why as I knew I wouldn't have enough Spanish to understand the answer.  There was a young girl, in her early 20s, sitting by herself in the ferry terminal weeping.  She probably had some event or commitment in Buenos Aires that evening and she wasn't going to make it.  I felt so bad for her. 




Killing time in Uruguay

When I texted John, he said that they probably didn't sell enough tickets.  The girls and I killed time by hanging out at the beach and then at a cafe.  We got to the ferry dock early, since we knew that all of the 5:30 passengers and all of the 9:00 passengers would be on the same ferry.  Sure enough the ferry still wasn't full.  

3. STRIKES
This morning John left the apartment at 5:30 am to take an early morning flight to Buenos Aires for what was supposed to be a two day trip to their Pacheco plant.  However when he got there this morning, everyone was talking about a big general strike tomorrow.  Now strikes in Argentina are fairly common and usually each group is striking for just one day.  The day we got home from Iguazu the cab drivers seemed to be on strike and instead of waiting five minutes for a cab after our late flight home, we stood in the cold and the rain and waited in line for an hour at the airport.  With the general strike tomorrow a number of the unions are striking and all flights are cancelled so John (and the secretarial staff) were scrambling to get him a flight back out of Buenos Aires tonight. After dinner he texted to let me know that he would be on the 9 pm flight.  At 9:38 they were boarding and hopefully he should be back to the apartment by midnight.  What a long day!

For my trip to Patagonia in December, I'm booked on the December 14th flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires, spending the weekend in Buenos Aires and then flying home for Christmas on December 17.  My plan is that if things go awry I've given myself a few extra days to get back to Buenos Aires in time for my flight home (and in time for my birthday!)  Fingers crossed!

Street Art

I was reading an article in the online edition of the Windsor Star today about the terrible problem of graffiti and tagging in the LaSalle area.  Here in Argentina, at least in Buenos Aires and Cordoba, there is an entirely different view of street art, which is that it is art. Areas are marked off for artists to use, festivals are held where street artists can meet and work together.  A new market is being built in the north end of the city and the outside of the building is already marked off with a grid so that artists will be able to paint their works on the walls.  Most artists sign their work, often adding their email or flickr account so that potential customers can contact them.  Perhaps if street artists in Ontario were able to take their time and produce quality work then communities and artists would  benefit.

When the girls were here visiting us in Buenos Aires in October we went on the Buenos Aires Street Art Tour which was one of the top recommended activities on TripAdvisor and I thought I would be something that my artist kids would really enjoy.  Matt gave us a three hour guided tour and his knowledge and passion for the subject were amazing. 

Imagine my surprise when John and I moved to our new neighbourhood in Cordoba to find that we have great street art in our neighbourhood as well.  We didn't have that in Barrio General Paz or Nuevo Cordoba, or if it was there it certainly wasn't as noticeable as it is here. We have a great mural right across the street from our apartment and lots of great art in the surrounding blocks.

If you are in Buenos Aires, I highly recommend Matt's tour, but if you would rather do it yourself you can use an online street art map or go to El Mercado de Las Pulgas at the corner of Dorrego y Av. Alvarez Thomas.  The entire outside of the building is covered with great art and the inside is full of cool antique shops.

Here are some of my favourites from Buenos Aires:

 These two pieces are by Jaz whose works have the appearance of watercolours. For the minotaur painting he mixed dirt from the location with the paint.

This piece is a self portrait by the artist who organized the Street Art Festival. He certainly gave himself a prominent piece of landscape and painted himself as General San Martin, an Argentinian hero, with a spray paint can.

During the Street Art festival an electrical building donated their wall space to be used and painted the outside of the building black to make it more artist friendly.  Here are a few of the many pieces from the electrical building:

An artist, formerly from Buenos Aires, returned to spread his father's ashes.  While in BA for a few days, he painted this mural of his father's eyes.  Wow!

Amazing stencil work

Cool piece by Blu who also did this video outside the electrical plant.

 

Location, location, location

We're finally back in Cordoba.  Our 4 pm flight was cancelled so we flew out of BA at 7 and arrived in Cordoba around 8:30 pm.  We quickly got our luggage, found our driver, and then headed to our new apartment.  Here's how our housing in Argentina works: Daniela is John's amazing secretary here.  She finds us a list of apartments based on our wish list - one bedroom, full-sized fridge, balcony (with BBQ if possible), and wireless. We look at the lists online, usually while John's at work and I'm elsewhere, and decide on our new home. These apartments come fully furnished and with basic kitchen provisions like plates, cups, cutlery, etc.

However, whenever John heads home for a week or longer, then he has to give up the apartment.  We pack everything up in boxes and suitcases, and whatever isn't coming home with us in stored in his office.  While the apartments are furnished, we've picked up extras like a colander, grater, saran wrap, tinfoil, a toaster, a good frying pan/wok , spices and some knives, etc.  I think we are up to two boxes and one very large suitcase of misc. additional 'stuff' that has to be packed and moved, in addition to our two suitcases each of clothes, shoes and toiletries.  When we come back, we stay in Buenos Aires at a hotel for a few days and live out of the two suitcases while he works at the plant there, then back to Cordoba to the next new apartment.  We really liked the apartment we had on Ovidio Lagos in July and August, but it wasn't available right now.  That's why we are here at nuestra nuevo casa numero cuatro (our new house, number four). 

So, back to our story.....  It was about 9 pm and we arrived at the gates of a huge compound with nine towers surrounded by a brick fence with a security gate.  The driver explained who we were and why we were there.  But while we had keys that Daniela had sent to the driver, we didn't have the name of which tower we were staying in or the apartment number.  John's Argentinean phone had a cracked screen and they had just given him a new one.  None of his contacts had been transferred onto the new phone so he tried looking for Daniela's number on his old phone.  Luckily he found someone's number, who was able to convince the security guard to let us in!

Up we went to the 15th floor to see our new home.  It was much smaller than the last apartment in every way - the rooms were smaller, the balcony was smaller, less closet space in the bedroom, no cabinet space in the bathroom.  But once I got everything unpacked the next morning, the suitcases stowed away, and added a few baskets to the bathroom, the space was working out OK. This compound is lovely, clean and so self contained.  It is all very new, with a big swimming pool and lots of little shops right on the grounds - several small grocery stores, a wine and cheese shop, a hairdresser, even a laundromat where you drop off your laundry and then pick it up later in the day, all washed and folded for only 26 pesos a load ($5).  Since it is a relatively new complex, many of the stores are still empty so the variety of shops will probably continue to expand over the next few months.

From our balcony we have a beautiful view of the Sierra Grandes and can watch the sunset over the mountains each night.  But the reason we have such a good view of the mountains is because we are on the very very edge of town, with mostly residential and some commercial buildings in one direction and open land in the other direction.  They have tried to create a compound that is like one of those Caribbean resorts where you never have to leave.  And quite frankly, after a week of exploring, there isn't much reason to go out into the neighbourhood.  Any restaurants are at least five or six blocks away and the only store within a short walking distance is WalMart.   All the other shops are quite a long hike away. 

The problem is that it doesn't feel like we're in Cordoba.  I'm not the type of person who goes to the resort and doesn't leave the grounds.  I'm more of a 'get out and explore with the locals kind of gal.  So, last week I decided it was time to learn how to get around on the local buses.  Now I have best of both worlds - a nice apartment to call home for now and easy access to the hustle and bustle of downtown. 

The bus system here is actually pretty good, and like most things in Argentina, very affordable.  In order to ride the bus, you have to have a Red Bus Tarjeta (card) which you can load and reload with any amount of pesos.  When you get on the bus, you swipe your card and it prints you out a receipt letting you know the balance remaining on your card.  Each bus ride is $3.20 pesos (about 60 cents).  This is a lot cheaper than the $40 peso ($9) cab fare for the twenty minute ride from here to downtown which is still ridiculously cheap compared to any Canadian or American city I've ever been in. 

There is a great website where you use a map to indicate your starting point and your destination and the website tells you which bus routes to take and the approximate time for the entire journey.  This is not just for Cordoba but for any major city in Argentina. There is another website where you can locate all of the stores that sell the Red Bus Tarjetas.  That being said, yesterday we went to buy John a bus card and the first two or three stores that we went to were out of cards.  Since we were already downtown, we just went from kiosco to kiosco until we found one that had cards available.  Now we're both able to head downtown whenever we want.  Yesterday's bus trip was to Mercado Norte, a huge bustling market with lots and lots of meat for sale as well as a few fruits and vegetables and other things. 

I'm not even sure what all of these are, I just know that I don't want to eat them.

We're heading to Buenos Aires next week and then home to Windsor for a week, so once again, we'll be giving up our apartment.  When we are back in early November we'll be in another new place, this one on the edge of Barrio Guemes and only a ten or fifteen minute walk downtown.  We'll be staying there until Christmas.  It will be great to be able to unpack our things and keep them unpacked for weeks on end! 

Within the next few weeks, John will have to decide where he wants to stay when he comes back in January - back to the great neighbourhood feel of Ovidio Lagos, the convenience of our location here at Altos Villa, or maybe our new neighbourhood in Barrio Guemes.  Who knows?  If none of those are available for a long stay, he could end up someplace new and different again.  It's all part of the adventure!

Beautiful Buenos Aires

Back to Argentina after a crazy September - including a blizzard of professional development and special events at work.  Then the closing on the sale of John's house and all the work of moving everything he owns into either my garage, my basement or a storage locker.  Everything is moved out of his house, although it still needs to be sorted, organized and tidied a bit.

We spent the weekend recovering and relaxing in my brother's condo in Port Clinton, and then it was time to head back to Argentina.
John and I were in Buenos Aires for a few days before flying to Cordoba; he at work in their Pacheco plant and I starting my online courses (I'm teaching two this term), and trying to relearn the Spanish I've forgotten.  
If you don't speak Spanish, Buenos Aires is a great place to start in South America.  Many of the signs, menus, etc are in English as well as Spanish. While we were only in Buenos Aires for a few days, it was wonderful.  I can hardly wait to come back later in October with my girls! 

Some of the highlights:
Our hotel.  We stayed at the Dazzler Tower on Heras, which is in the Recoleta neighbourhood, close to great restaurants and beautiful parks.  The staff were super helpful, especially when my flight to Cordoba was cancelled and I needed to make changes by phone. Not sure I would have been successful without Ana at the front desk. 

The food.  So much good food.... I especially loved the empanadas and tamales at El Sanjuanino, the tapas at El Burladero, and the fish and grilled vegetables at La Lorenzo.







The grilled vegetables at La Lorenzo were served on a little stand that contained hot coals, so the vegetables kept cooking at your table as you ate dinner.  Delish!

We arrived at the tapas restaurant on a Tuesday night and couldn't get a table - no room!  So we sat at the bar for dinner, which was very entertaining and the food was fantastic.

El Sanjuanino, a true little hole in the wall with the best tamales and empanadas

My 'office.'  There was free wifi at the cafe next door to the hotel, so I sat there for two afternoons drinking tea and working away on my online course.  No one tried to hurry me along, or accused me of loitering.  They almost seem disappointed when you ask for the bill.  For 15 pesos, about $3, I sat there all afternoon, drinking tea, working on my laptop, and watching the world go by.  Felt a little bit like JK Rowling.

The view from my office

Riding the A Subte line.  I had read on another BA blog (Buenos Aires or Bust) that the A line on the BA subway (subte) had antique wooden cars with vintage lights so I decided to go and check it out for myself.  The first A train that came along was a regular modern train, but sure enough, I waited for another and along it came. Beautiful wooden interior with windows that open all the way and doors that you have to pull open manually.  When the train takes off from the station, it takes quite awhile for the doors to eventually close.  I can't imagine the TTC ever allowing anything like that in Toronto.  Thanks for the tip Amber!

Interior

Doors open, windows open, as we speed away down the track.

Dogwalkers.  They were everywhere when I went for a walk on Wednesday morning.  And every single one of the dogs was adorable. Need I say more?  How can you not love a city that loves its dogs?

Home Sick Home

Last summer I spent three weeks wandering around Europe and it was the coldest, rainiest summer there that anyone could remember.  When I flew home, I already had a sore throat and within two days of returning it turned it to full blown laryngitis.  I was supposed to be presenting four days of workshops and had to scramble to find a replacement for the first few days, and then reschedule the rest. 

This summer, I left Cordoba for the long trek home feeling perfectly healthy.  I arrived home early Saturday afternoon and tidied the house.  Sunday I worked away at trying to get the garden back under control, and then went to visit my mom and dad.  By Sunday night I had a sore throat and cough, and by Monday night, I had a raging fever. A visit to the doctor on Tuesday confirmed an upper respiratory infection which has knocked me on my bottom for a few days, missing two of the three days of conferences where I was supposed to be presenting and facilitating. Once again, others are stepping in to cover my responsibilities.

Some family and friends hypothesize that it is the 'germy' air on the long flights that causes my after-travel illnesses.  But if that was true, then I should be sick when I arrive to my destination as well, and that hasn't happened. 

My theory is that I arrive home with a long 'to-do' list in my head and have a hard time not trying to get everything done all at once. I want to unpack, tidy up the house, and the yard, go for groceries, visit friends and family, and in both cases, I also had to return to work on the Monday after a Saturday return.  As difficult as it is for me, I am going to have to learn to take some time to relax when I return from a trip and gradually return to my home schedule, rather than throwing myself back into the usual busy stressful routine. My body is sending me a clear message that it just can't take that kind of sudden shift.  I don't know how John does it - when he flies back to Buenos Aires, his flight arrives in the early morning; he drops his suitcases off at the hotel and heads straight to work for the rest of the day.

My next return flight home is for Christmas, which means I'll be flying home to another very busy, stressful time. It seems obvious to me now that I need to return with plenty of time to put up the tree, do some Christmas shopping, decorate the house, as well as prepare for my return to work in January.  Otherwise I'll come home and try to rush through all the things that need to be done and end up sick on Christmas.  That would be awful! 

I'm posting this entry on my  blog for two reasons:
1. I'm wondering if anyone else has the same experience. Do you find that you are more susceptible to illnesses or other maladies when you return home from a long trip?  What strategies do you use to prevent this from happening or to lessen the effect? 

2.  I'm also posting this as a personal reminder to myself to make sure I return home early for Christmas and give myself time to adjust.  Friends and family, feel free to remind me if I start to talk about staying down in South America for 'just a little bit longer......'

(Just in case you're wondering, yes that is a Sponge Bob Square Pants plastic tablecloth under our Christmas tree.  We had an elderly cat who was having some issues with peeing in inappropriate places, so I had to cover the presents under the tree with plastic.  It's not part of our usual holiday decor, but we do what we have to do to make sure all the members of our family have a good holiday, even our pets.  We miss you Joz.)

No place like home

I'm heading back to Canada for six weeks for work and to visit friends and family.  Then back to Argentina in late September til Christmas. John was going to come home with me, but now he has to stay here for another week and a half to finish up inventory here and in Buenos Aires.  Unfortunately, we only had this apartment booked until August 17, and someone else has it rented after us, so we have to clear out tomorrow.  John will be staying back at the hotel til Tuesday then going to Buenos Aires. 

When I get back in late September, we may still be in Cordoba, but most likely will be moving back to Buenos Aires.  I'll just have to wait and see, but being patient is not one of my strengths.  One of the things I'll be bringing back with me is an oven thermometer.  The ovens over here are tricky to light - you need a match, and then once you light them, the only temperature is 290C (550F) degrees.  Which is fine for making a pizza, but I need some way of monitoring the temperature if I want to do any baking.  And I do!

In the meantime, I went downtown to buy a notebook since I've started working on a number of projects for the 2012 - 2013 school year and need somewhere to keep all my notes together.  Plus, a notebook will be a souvenir I can use every day.  As I walked towards to the Puento Olmos bridge, I noticed a helicopter hovering overhead, and two buses stopped on the bridge.  Turns out there was a big protest parade with hundreds of people marching, carrying flags and banging drums. 

Another Day, Another Protest

John and I wanted to go for a special dinner, just in case we don't end up back in Cordoba together, to celebrate the time we've had together here.  So we went to San Honorato.  If you are ever in Cordoba, be sure to check it out.  A beautiful old historic building with huge ceilings and old brick walls. Once we arrived and ordered our meals, the waitress told us that we could help ourselves to appetizers in the wine cellar.  We went downstairs to the wine cellar where the owner offered us a glass of wine and we could help ourselves to pate, grilled vegetables and other yummy things!  We were chatting with a father and son from Texas who were there also, and before we knew it, it was time to head upstairs for dinner.  Delicious!

The Lost Art of Conversation

... or should I just say the lost ability to have a conversation? 

I'm having a great time in Argentina, but I miss some things from back home. Of course, I miss my family and my friends - that goes without saying. 

But the other thing I'm missing is the day to day conversations that I usually have with a variety of people.  Don't get me wrong - John and I are still speaking to each other!!!   But he leaves for work around 7:30 am and doesn't get home til around 6:30 pm or later.  And I don't think it's healthy to have one person as your sole social partner.

My plans for this trip came together rather quickly, and we were uncertain as to whether we would be based in Buenos Aires or Cordoba, so there wasn't a lot of time to do much research beforehand. I knew almost no Spanish, but last year I was able to travel throughout Europe and was able to find people who spoke English almost everywhere I went.

In Argentina, it's been more of a challenge. Very very few people speak English, so the chances of running into someone in a store who speaks English and having a quick conversation are almost nil.  I'm working away at learning Spanish, but I"m still far from having any sort of conversational fluency.  It's mostly nouns and a lot of pointing.  Sort of Tarzan's version of English.  In BA, I was in the grocery store one afternoon and heard a number of people speaking English.  They were a group of young Canadians who were part of the cast of Disney on Ice, who had just arrived in BA for a few weeks.  They were stocking up on groceries for their residence, and I spoke to a few girls in the checkout ahead of me who were from Charlottetown, Saskatoon and Toronto.  It was such a treat to just be able to talk to someone for a few minutes, and not struggle to understand and be understood.

I'm used to being very social and heading out with friends for a movie, a round of golf , dinner or a game of scrabble.  It's been difficult not to be able to do that here, except when John is available.  I didn't think it would be easy to meet people in Argentina, but I had no idea it would be this tough.

My strategy this morning was to search out expat websites and blogs from other people in Argentina to see if I could meet some people that way. So far, no luck.  Most of the blogs are from people who are in BA, or were here but have already left.  Frustrating!

I need to have a better strategy when I come back in October.  Right now it is winter time, which is pretty quiet in terms of tourists.  When I come back, it will be summer here so there may be more people sitting at outdoor cafes and out in the parks.  But I don't want to look like a stalker, lurking about and waiting to hear someone speaking English.  I've thought about signing up for Spanish lessons so I can meet other people who are learning the language.  When I went to the school to see about lessons for this week, only one other person was taking lessons.  There seems to be a very strong expat community in BA but not so much here in Cordoba.  Besides moving to BA, any other ideas???  I'd love to hear strategies that other people have used.

Food, Glorious Food!

Anyone who knows me knows that my life revolves around food.  Yes, my family is most important, but after that, life revolves around food.  I've made the adjustment to Argentinian style dining, but it hasn't been easy.

Mealtimes are not the same as in North America.  Breakfast at our hotel is served from 7 to 10 am on weekdays, and from 8 - 11 pm on weekends.  John has to delay the start of his workday if he wants to be able to have breakfast before he leaves for work; normally he would be at work before 7 am.  Lunchtime is around 1:30 or 2 pm.  There are lots of great cafes for lunch, or sometimes I just grab an empanada from a stand in one of the pedestrian malls.

John and I had lunch at La Fontaine, an outdoor cafe featuring works by local artists, and the ubiquitous stray dogs.

Dinnertime.........well, you've got a long wait til dinnertime my friends.  Restaurants in Buenos Aires and in Cordoba don't open for dinner until at least 8 pm and often not until 8:30 or 9 pm.  And since Argentina is famous for slow service, by the time you are seated, have some bread and some wine, you might not be eating around 10 pm. Then you wait for your bill and by the time you walk back home, it's bedtime.  We usually get to the restaurants shortly after they open, and within half an hour they are always packed with local families as well as tourists and business people.

Portions here are enormous and no one has heard of doggy bags, so John and I will often split a salad and an entree.  Or we each order our meat entree, and then split a side of vegetables. Meat courses come with just meat, and then you order whatever side dishes you want such as potatoes and veg. I've been keeping my eyes open for vegetarian options so that we have a selection of nice places to eat when Madison and Shelbe come to visit in the fall.  Food here tends to be on the bland side, and any ethnic dishes tend to be blander than they would be at home to cater to Argentinian palates.



John's steak at Alcorta.  Back home, we might call this a roast and serve it to a family.



BBQ places (parilla) are very popular with a variety of meats cooked over wood coals. 

Dulce de Leche is super popular in Argentina.  To paraphrase the old lady in the Frank's Red Hot commercial, "They put that sh*t on everything!"  For those of you who aren't familiar with Dulce de Leche, it's made by slowly heating sweetened milk until it's like a caramel sauce.  The literal translation is Sweet of Milk, and we've seen it listed that way on some menus that were translated into English.  You can find it in any kind of dessert including dulce de leche flavoured ice cream.  You can buy it by the jar, or in big tubs, at any grocery store. On the breakfast buffet, dulce de leche is available to spread on your toast, and the English translation is "Milk Jam." 

The English version of the Dessert Menu at Da Minga, in Buenos Aires. It's wonderful that they have English menus, but not everything translates.  Some items for dessert include Lemon Foot; Pears to the Burgundy or the Mist; and Pancake of Sweet of Milk, which is probably a crepe with dulce de leche. 

We had the Apple Tarantella, which turned out to be like cheesecake with cooked apple slices on top, covered with dulce de leche.  Delicious! 

The odd thing is that even though the locals seem to subsist on a diet of white carbs (facturas, medalunnas, chirrillos, etc), red meat, red wine and late meals, the obesity rate of 18 % in Argentina is lower than Canada (24%) and the United States (34%).  How is that possible?

Because the economy in Argentina is not very strong right now, we get a great exchange rate for our dollar, which makes eating in restaurants here very reasonable. And wine is dangerously inexpensive - about 40 to 50 pesos for a nice bottle of wine with dinner, which is about $10 Canadian.  In the grocery stores, if you buy food that has been grown and processed in Argentina, it is very cheap. If you buy something that has been imported from any other country, it is usually very expensive.  For example, I saw a tiny little container of blueberries, wilted and shrivelled that had been imported and they were 22 pesos ($5 Canadian).  For the same amount of money, I could by a mountain of local produce.

We are really looking forward to moving into the apartment on Tuesday.  We'll have a full kitchen with a big fridge and a gas stove with an oven so we can start eating some meals at home.  We had a tiny kitchen in our BA apartment with just two electric burners and a bar fridge, but even then we were able to eat some meals that we had prepared ourselves.  I'll miss the breakfast buffet each morning, but it will be nice to eat what we want and when we want. 

'Home cooking' in Buenos Aires

Tour of the Town

On Saturday, I spent the morning checking out the sites, then John joined me when he got home from work.  Here's some of the highlights of our day on the town in Buenos Aires (minus the bird poop story, since I already posted that):



Beautiful fountain on Av. 9 de Julio

The Obelisk

Changing of the Guard

Bookstore located in an old theatre with a restaurant on the converted stage

John at Recoleta Cemetary

Eva Peron's tomb (Evita)







This tomb really intrigued me. It has a skull with other designs, and the cross on top is draped with fabric.  I wonder what the significance of this tomb is and what the fabric on the cross symbolizes? 

Beautiful plants blooming in the middle of Argentinian winter.

This one belongs to a former president of Argentina. 

Famous Banyan Tree in Recoleta

Musican playing in the park by the flea market

Floralis Generica Monument

Later that night at the Women's Bridge in Puerto Madero.  Can someone explain to me why something

this phallic is called the Women's Bridge?

John and I on the Women's Bridge on our way to a well-deserved dinner at El Mirasol after

a busy day of sightseeing.

Buenas Noches!